It's perfectly understandable if you've never noticed 240 Union. Situated as it is in Lakewood next to a Red Lobster in a strip mall that includes Subway Sandwiches, it might be mistaken by drivers-by for just another roadside eatery. Only the subtitle "a creative grille" hints at the pleasures within.

Inside, the suburban highway evaporates into a large space warmed with curved wood partitions, colorful modern art and fresh flowers. An open kitchen complete with wood oven and rotisserie forms a backdrop along one long wall. Dividers, cushions and carpeting keep the clamor in check at this always-busy restaurant.

Chef Matthew Franklin's menu is mainly seasonal - aside from a few keeper crowd-pleasing entrees. Specials are a significant part of the current winter menu, especially when it comes to a 240 Union specialty: fish and seafood.

I put that reputation to the test on my first visit by ordering the fried clam strips ($8.50). I was so pleased to receive a platter piled with the real deal: tender whole - not chopped - clams, fried in a zippy, crunchy coating and served with parsley aioli. They were hot and chewy but never rubbery.

In my opinion, eating sweetbreads ($10) - the thymus glands of immature calves requires a leap of faith. I'm glad we believed at 240 Union. Each of these sweetbreads - roasted with bacon, shallots, honey and sherry vinegar - were tender and smooth. Another winter pleaser was butternut squash and apple soup ($4), a warming, soothing puree that was a little on the thick side.

In a moment of parental largess, I told my offspring he could order anything he wanted from the menu. The clever 7-year-old opted for lobster and winter squash ravioli ($18), served in a light lemon butter with sage. While I was busy appreciating the nuances of chef Franklin's stunning sesame-crusted seabass ($20) with a lively citrus vinaigrette and mashed potatoes, the boy was wolfing down the tender pasta pockets and the nice, large pieces of buttery lobster and cubes of orange squash. "Hey," I said, "save some for me. Remember, it's my job to taste it." He only grudgingly complied.

Also quite pleasant was the 240 cioppino ($14). A concentrated seafood broth held chunks of fish, clams, shrimp and scallops. Mom gave her vote for the fork-tender beef short ribs ($20) in a smoked paprika jus with mashed root vegetables as a warm dip.

One reason 240 Union has thrived is that its co-owners - chef Franklin and general manager Michael Coughlin - are on the premises working every day. Strings restaurant owner Noel Cunningham is also a partner. Coughlin also overseees a truly notable wine list divided into such helpful categories as "More than just a pretty face" for affordable, easy-sippin' wines and "No wimpy wines" for high-end, big-bodied reds. Twenty decent bottles are available as wine-by-the-glass choices, $4.50 to $9 per glass.

A recent return engagement began with a truly cool-looking appetizer, crab claw fritters ($14), with a meaty, partially shelled claw peeking out the top. The claw is wrapped in a chunky crab mixture and fried golden brown. Fiery mayo and citrus-soaked jicama slaw made it even more craveable.

For a lighter dinner or lunch, the eatery's ovens deliver Wolfgang Puck-style pizzas on chewy, slightly charred thin crusts. Our wild mushroom, prosciutto and fontina version ($13) was the essence of earthy, with chewy fungi and salt-infused ham.

My co-diner Laura narrowed the entreee choices to John Dory ($24) - the hot fish du jour. The delicately sauteed white filet was matched by a light lemon thyme butter sauce. Laura - an admitted closet lima-bean lover - would have ordered the dish simply for the presence of this light green legume. Its starchiness blends well with the lush bacon smashed potatoes and a crowning touch: slightly chewy golden chantarelle mushrooms and criply fried onion wisps. A better winter fish dish you're unlikely to encounter.

I like to choose pork chops to see how well they're prepared; they're so easy to mess up and turn into hockey pucks. This grilled chop ($17.50) had nicely blackened edges but was juicy inside. Chef Franklin's sauce - a reduction of pinot noir and plums - was a masterful match. These chops are offered "encrusted," but all that meant was topping the meat with chopped pistachios. On the other hand, those nuts tasted just fine with the creamy green-onion risotto that served as a pedestal for the pork.

Even with all my tasting at 240 Union, I missed another fabled house specialty: spit-roasted half-chicken ($14). I'll also have to return to sample the grilled lamb rack chops ($29).

After such a busily flavored meal, I chose creme brulee ($5) from the dessert menu with a certain amount of trepidation. This simple classic is so often butchered or upscaled in some bizarre fashion. What a pleasure it was to spoon through the delicate burned-sugar surface of 240 Union's creme brulee and discover it to be darn near perfect.

We also appreciated the delicate burnt orange panna cotta ($5), a melt-on-your-spoon creamy jelled dessert topped with whipped cream and a beautiful dried candy orange slice. Overall, the pastry chef deserves a rousing ovation for a fine selection of sweets.

I saw a lot of happy people at 240 Union - bartenders, waiters and cooks - and that's always the best sign. I never felt rushed, and the waiters are always attentive and willing to do most anything to satisfy the customer.

I also saw a lot of pleased, nicely attired customers of all ages. Similar grills that open and close in a few months in Denver would do well to study the many things Franklin and friends have done right for more that 12 years in Lakewood. It's more than worth the drive to enjoy this gem. _________________________

Contact John Lehndorff at (303) 892-5103 or lehndorff@RockyMountainNews.com